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PC Build


#1

Hey everyone, so I’ve been sitting on this for quite some time now. I want to build this PC just slowly saving the money for it. I was hoping to get some feedback on the build. I want it to be a build that can at least run modern games on high between at least 30 and 60FPS even medium would be fine for me. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/THEFIREGAMER123/saved/ZRvmqs


#2

this build is great, if you want the frames you are desiring you dont really need a 20 series card, 1060-1080’s are fine.


#3

A couple of opinions:

550 Watts for your power supply is pretty low. I would guess that 550W is around the bare minimum requirement for your build. Consider getting more power.

My current build has an ASRock motherboard. It’s old now but i’ve always had problems with it. The biggest one is that mine specifically lies about the temperature sensors. It reports temperature cooler than the ambient air temperature in my room which is impossible. I’ve also experienced hardware conflicts with it and the USB headers were unreliable. It’s my first and last ASRock purchase. This is just one review so don’t rely too much on it.

I’m guessing that the WD hard drive is your “file storage”/unimportant programs drive?


#4

Yeah, @kovec has a point your supply is a bit low. But everything else seems fine. Also the price is awesome :smiley: good research.


#5

with this set up u runing literaly every game in 2019 2020 2021 in high settings
and max settings 2018 - 1934 games
is like 1070ti the 2060 with dedicated path tracing hardware


#6

Yeah that build should be fine for the next few years. Like the others said its probably better to get a bigger power supply to make sure.


#7

I’m not educated on ryzen stock CPU coolers besides that they are not to shabby. But if you want more cooing power maybe a AIO liquid cooler. Anyways if your solid on your parts, then my option would not be necessary. Just a thought.


#8

But, I looked at your case, and i see its a closed front panel style. I was wondering if you are planning on getting fans for airflow, or if you already have it sorted out. Just another thing I missed the first time.


#9

Question about the power supply people are mentioning

It lists 264W for the build of @THEFIREGAMER123

My own part list says 224W

Why the need for a bigger power supply when 550 is double what partpicker says we will use?


#10

Now looking back on it, you got a point. His parts dont really need more than 500w in my opinion. For me it’s better safe than sorry. But I agree with you.


#11

I think for the build it’s fine, but just in case you wanted to throw some additions in later that may drain more juice?

I think adequate is adequate, and if there’s no plans to change the build in the future and instead go for an all new set up, there’s no reason to upgrade.

Or upgrade until it’s all used up and then upgrade the power supply if needed.


#12

I’ll admit i didn’t actually look up the wattage used by the components. I guessed based on my own system and 550 wouldn’t be enough for mine. Maybe i’m just outdated.


#13

May I ask why the wifi? Ethernet is going to be way better, and you can put the extra money toward a far (far) better motherboard that will pull out more power from that Ryzen and better RAM (or any future RAM upgrades). Because higher speeds do extreme wonders for Ryzen CPUs (as they roll out more updates it should be better all around though). Slow speeds for RAMs tend to not do well with the overall performance of a Ryzen build.

As for the motherboard, if you are stuck in the B450M range, I would really suggest cutting out that wifi card for now and putting that money toward a better motherboard (VRM etc). Even a bit more in the B450M category will do wonders (or put it toward the 2600x model CPU), however, overall, the build is great. The SeaSonic PSUs are amazing brands (I’d personally go for 600-650w because CPU and other power will go up, especially because, you know, AMD) so you aren’t going to go wrong there, and the Ryzen 2600(x) are killer CPUs.


#14

I believe the PSU recommendations are coming out of a bit of an older mindset. 10-15 years ago a larger PSU was almost always better not only because the high output ones tended to also be good in quality but every new gen of everything drew more and more power so buying a hefty PSU was a great way to future proof yourself.

However I do not feel like this is the case today. We hit the max limit of how much power can be delivered to a graphics card years ago and only the top tier cards hit their head on that TDP ceiling. We’re going to have to see a whole new card standard for power delivery before that’s broken, at which point you’re going to need a PSU that follows that standard anyway.

Other reason I used to go with as big a PSU as I could afford back in the day was because harddrives were small and if you wanted massive storage space you had to throw them in by the handfull. That’s not as much a concern anymore either as you can get 10-15TB now on a single 3.5V line.

Finally why you shouldn’t go overboard with a PSU. You only get the efficiency rating advertised on a PSU when it runs at a load of about 70-80% if you’re running your PSU at only 50% load the efficiency tends to be around 60%. Higher quality PSUs have better efficiencies at a wider window but even your top of the line PSUs wont be reaching their gold standard stickers if you have a lot of unused potential. You just don’t need it.

So with all that said, I think your choice of a 550w PSU is probably just fine.


#15

I got some comments. Getting out of bed for this. Sec.


#16

Okay,

CPU. I would step up to the 2600x to get the Wraith Spire cooler instead of the stealth. Or get a water cooling AIO (just stick in the front of your case, better temps).
Mobo. I normally stay away from ASSrock. but what you choose is up to you. At least it has 4 DIMM slots.
RAM. get 3200 MHz. seriously. Ryzen LOVES fast RAM.
Storage. get 7200 RPM spinny drives. never settle for less unless you need large amounts of space. I do believe 2TB come in 7200 RPM models. some larger ones may not.
Graphics Card - Just remember RTX is a gimmick currently. The 2060 performs wells in everything BUT Ray-tracing. Also DLSS is a bunch of PR bogus.
Case - At corsair for 78$ according PCPP. Just some info. Looks fine, was worried about front panel airflow but it looks like it’ll be fine. I recently recommended a Fractal Design Focus G to a friend. Case is really up to you as you’re the one going to be looking at it.
PSU - it’s sufficient. and it’s semi-modular which is nice.
Wi-fi module - unless you need it, I would hardwire.
Monitor - be aware it’s a TN panel. if you are fine with that okay. Just be aware there are IPS panels in that price range (though generally 60Hz) also, be aware you can overclock your monitor :slight_smile:

Desk: If you plan on adding more screens, I would be concerned about the width of the “bookshelf”. I had that problem at college where the shelf width was too small.

Overall pretty solid. Good Job.


#17

power supplies are a pain in the butt to replace.

It has vents on the side in the front from what i could see.

nope. 50%-60% is approximately the top of the efficiency curve. in addition 80+ is actually pretty strict. It is supposed to be 80% efficient from 20% to 100% load. higher ratings are stricter.


#18

It would seem I remember things incorrectly or mixing it up with ancient info. Thanks for correcting me.

I also would like to say I agree with everyone who’ve raised a concern about Asrock. Motherboard is not the component in a computer build I would go budget on for myself.


#19

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.


#20

At some point years ago PCPartPicker changed their website and my saved build was lost. I just took the time to put the information back in: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/kovec/saved/BK2FGX

This claims my system is at 343 W. However, i don’t trust that so i looked up the specs on my GPU and it specifically says on the box (which i still have) that it requires a minimum 500 W power supply. So be careful and don’t trust the estimate on PCPartPicker. Make sure you look up the actual manufacturer’s specs.